FAQ

Some people assume that because we carry some of the best bikes in the world that we either charge more for everything, or that we only want to sell the expensive stuff. Nothing could be further from the truth – for us, it’s all about getting more people out and enjoying riding at all levels. The bikes you see in our stores are priced exactly the same as the big bike shops, but we provide a much higher level of service with every customer.

Another angle on this is the cost of not receiving personal service. If you purchase a bike that is the wrong size it just won’t feel good and will likely sit in your garage and not get ridden – that’s a VERY expensive bike. We also have people that visit our service department after becoming tired of repeatedly paying $50 for a “bargain tune-up” at the bigger stores when nothing ever seems to get properly fixed. We’re not like that, and offer a much different experience.

A: Generally, our dealer agreements prohibit us from shipping overseas so we won’t risk our good relationships with them just to make a few extra dollars.  If you are visiting us in person then we can ship your purchase home for you.

A: We will gladly match prices with other local dealers, provided we can verify the quote either in writing or with a quick phone call.  We want your long-term business and don’t want a price match to stand in the way.

A: Sometimes.  We have a lot of respect for the high-quality service that online bike shops like Competitive Cyclist and Wrench Science, and we will match their prices whenever possible.  Please note that sometimes they buy closeouts that we don’t have access to.

The second type of online presence are the pure discounters, many of whom don’t even offer a phone number for you to talk to someone and some even have a “zero returns” policy.  We believe we offer a significant value above this and we don’t offer price matching with them.

The third type are the “grey market” vendors who are either bringing in products from overseas distributors directly to their US warehouses, or shipping directly into the US from overseas.  Although we’ve heard that some of them are actually pretty reputable, bypassing US safety standards and voiding any US warranty doesn’t seem to make sense just to save a few dollars.  We definitely don’t match prices with these vendors, and in some cases our vendor contracts prohibit us from even servicing grey market components if they are identified as such.

A: Some of our brands have wonderful names steeped in history and mystique, and the pronunciation isn’t simple.  Our rule of thumb is that any way you pronounce it is fine by us, and no matter how we pronounce the name it’s nowhere close to how it sounds when the Italians/French/Belgians say it.  We think it’s all about having fun on the ride, not getting caught up in “Vil-ee-air” or “Will-eye-er” or silly stuff like that.

We’re asked this question a lot, and by people in a lot of  different situations.  We can only give guidelines and general advice here, and it’s only fair to mention that personal service is our goal and if you stop by the shop we can advise you on your particular situation.

Tire choice is somewhat dependent on your activity and preferences, as well as which wheels you own or want to own. Tubular tires use a system in which a tube is sewn within a full tire casing. The tire is then glued to a special tubular rim. Most commonly used in racing, tubulars give a more supple, responsive ride. Cornering on a tubular is the best example of how the tire differs from a clincher. Grip and feel are noticeably better. Clincher technology has improved considerably over the years, but two problems always affect the ride: tube/tire interface, and the clinching bead system that holds the tire in place. With a tube and tire, friction between the two increase rolling resistance, and in some cases the tube can adhere to the tire surface, which only exacerbates the problem. The bead that clinches the tire to a hooked rim limits the supple feel of the edge of the tire, as it reduces actual casing that can flex and grip compared to a tubular. The newest technology is road tubeless which borrows from the mountain UST tubeless system, but is designed for the smaller casing tire and higher pressures required by a road tire. Road tubeless does not require a tube, but the cyclist can use a tube in case of a flat by removing the tubeless valve core and installing a tube. The bead and hook design for a road tubeless rim/tire combination is different from the standard clincher, but a standard clincher tire can be used on the rim with a tube. Shimano and Hutchinson collaborated on the road tubeless system, and though the technology can be licensed, only a few companies, such as Campagnolo and Fulcrum, have adopted the rim technology (called 2-Way Fit). Hutchinson makes most of the road tubeless tires and a broad selection has been slow to market. Road tubeless gives you the benefit of not running a tube, which reduces that friction, as well as being able to run slightly lower pressures to improve cornering and ride without fear of a pinch flat. Tubulars are the lightest and most labor intensive, with limited options for flat repair while on the the road. Clinchers offer the convenience and ease of use at less cost. Road tubeless solves some of the clincher limitations, but can be difficult to repair on the road unless you simply install a tube. Which is right for you? Tough to say, but all have plusses and minuses, so please come in and we can discuss it further.